Thrifting 101: Your guide to finding quality pieces

From left to right, experts featured in the podcast episode are Colin Bradley, Gosa Osayamen and Stephen Emery. Their clothes are cutouts of real clothes they've thrifted, with their faces drawn in as cartoon versions of themselves.
Photographs by Colin Bradley, Gosa Osayamen, Stephen Emery; Collage by Kaz Fantone | NPR

Asia Marquis’s love for thrifting started when she was a kid visiting second-hand stores with her mom and grandma. “I always say: I’m not new to this – I’m true to this.”

Marquis grew up without name-brand clothes or designer items but quickly learned that thrifting could help her develop her own style. “I’ve just been able to figure out exactly how I want to express myself to the world through my fashion.”

Now, Marquis has a group she started called the Thrift Sistas Club in Dayton, Ohio, where she and a group of women meet monthly and thrift together.

But if you’re new to sifting through thrift stores, finding quality pieces you’ll cherish for years might feel out of reach.

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Whether you want to find some shorts for summer, are interested in shopping more sustainably, or you’re trying to explore your personal style, we have tips from longtime thrifters on how to up your thrifting game.

Gather inspiration and create a wish list

Marquis says to look for fashion inspiration online before you head out.

She brings screenshots and references from magazines and TV shows she likes as a way to focus on specific items she's hoping to find. She’s a fan of ‘90s fashion, so she’ll sometimes look up outfits that Tisha Campbell wore as Gina in the 1990s comedy series Martin.

Marquis says without a focus, you might walk into a thrift store and think, “It’s just too much.” If that happens, you might throw in the towel and leave with nothing.

Marquis also likes to bring a wish list. Thrift stores usually have a ton of variety, so having an idea of three to five things you’re looking for — like a pair of shorts, a tank top and a bag for the beach — can help you navigate the store more efficiently.

Think through your thrifting strategy

Items are often out of place at thrift stores, so a “check every section” approach pays off.

You can also sift through sections you generally like. For example, I go to the jackets first. I’m always looking for a statement piece, like a good leather bomber, and I have the most energy initially, so I like taking my time with outerwear.

You can also look at the clothes you already own and love to help weed out options. What colors look best on you? What textures do you like? What silhouettes flatter you? Lean on that knowledge to go through racks faster.

Stephen Emery has amassed a following on social media by documenting his thrifting excursions and posting his hauls. He started thrifting in high school but got more into it a few years ago in an effort to be more sustainable. When thrifting, he stays away from specific colors. “I don’t look good in pinks or reds, so I just avoid those colors altogether.”

Another strategy: shop for items out of season because fewer people will be looking for them. For example, look for puffer coats in July and tank tops in January. You can also try going on a Monday or Tuesday because often weekends are when stores get most of their donations. That way, you can be the first to go through the new merchandise.

Know your measurements

A tip that changes the game is simply knowing your measurements.

Mary Jacobs is a second-hand stylist — she thrifts and curates clothes for people. She says taking your measurements can be daunting, but if you just know two –—chest and hip — you can go through the store much faster.

Once you have those numbers, Jacobs says to bring a tape measure with you when you shop. At the store, you can use it to determine if clothes will fit you without trying them on. By not trying items on, you’ll spend “so much less time” in the store, says Jacobs.

Check for quality

Check for noticeable wear and tear, such as pilling and stains. Also, check the crotch and the pits of items (gross, I know, but necessary). Feel the material between your fingers – do you think it will rip or stretch?

Looking at the tags can tell you a lot about a garment's quality too, including its fabric makeup.

Fabrics that are made of 100 percent natural fibers — like cotton, silk and linen, are harder to come by but are of higher quality and will last longer.

And check the stitching of items. Elizabeth Cline is a journalist who has written two books on labor in the fashion industry. She's also been thrifting for over 30 years. She says there's more complexity in the stitching of well-made clothing: “The seams and the sewing are really important components ... Higher quality pieces tend to be more tailored.”

You don’t want clothes that fall apart after the first wash. You want to walk home with something you can have and wear for a long time.

Finally, there’s an element of chance when thrifting. You could go every day for a week and find nothing you love. Or you could strike gold on a spontaneous trip. With patience and a little digging, you can find items you'll treasure and wear.

More tips on style and clothing from Life Kit:

If you’re looking to up your style game, consider creating a “shopping philosophy” to cultivate your personal style.

To create a more sustainable wardrobe, don’t think of your clothes as disposable.

Can’t get that tricky stain out of your favorite sweater? Try one of these hacks.

If you want to try sewing your own clothes, here’s where to start. Or, if you want to give worn out clothes new life, give visible mending a try.

The audio portion of this episode was hosted and reported by Mia Venkat and edited by Meghan Keane.

We'd love to hear from you. Email us at LifeKit@npr.org. Listen to Life Kit on Apple Podcasts and Spotify, or sign up for our newsletter.