Review: Vinai gives you a big Vang for your buck
But can they do something about the cocktail glasses?
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In the northeast neighborhood of Minneapolis, a long-awaited restaurant has finally opened its door. Chef Yia Vang’s Vinai has come to fruition after five years of development.
Diners are greeted by the scent of Southeast Asian ingredients and the sounds of a bustling kitchen. The restaurant features an open concept, where diners can peer past the bar into the kitchen to see cooks working away.
The design is overall subtle and clean, with chic lantern-like fixtures hanging from the ceiling, and a large wooden structure, reminiscent of a house’s roof frame, that acts as a centerpiece.
It also pays homage to Chef Vang’s heritage. Many of the design elements use Hmong textile tradition for their pattern work. In some ways, the restaurant evokes the feeling of trendy bars I’ve been to in tropical locations, like my home state of Hawaii.
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I imagine it is similar to eateries in Thailand, where Vang has roots. The name Vinai even comes from the name of the refugee camp he was born in, Ban Vinai.
Vang has said that Vinai is a love letter to his parents. The menu demonstrates that. It features food that Vang has described as reflecting how he ate growing up in a Hmong household.
The dishes can be enjoyed independently, but easily mix, creating new combinations. This is a testament to Vang’s skill in allowing a dish to shine on its own — but beautifully act in concert with other dishes.
The menu isn’t cheap — some plates can run you upwards of $40, and cocktails are mostly over $15 — but it isn’t unreasonable for a Minneapolis restaurant with a celebrity chef. There is plenty of variety, both in cost and ingredients.
Dishes include braised beef rib in a broth of bamboo and taro stems, as well as a spatchcocked whole grilled chicken, imbued with a coconut ginger sauce that brightens with fruity undertones.
I have a soft spot for canned meat, so the chili and green onion spiced mackerel served in a sardine tin tops my list. The real stand-out on the menu is the Crabby Fried Rice, a magnificent blend of garlic, blue crab and vegetables. It’s seemingly simple — but delicious. This can be said for everything I tried on my two visits, first at an invited preview event and again this week after the restaurant officially opened.
Another prominent feature of Vinai is its cocktail menu, full of twists on old favorites, including an old fashioned that uses cardamom bitters and a Hmong take on a cucumber margarita. Others also utilize southeast Asian flavors, like lemongrass.
One small note, however: the glassware leaves much to be desired. When chilled, Vinai’s beverages sweat with condensation. Coupled with the matte black tabletops you’ll constantly notice wet rings of water next to your plates.
Vinai began as an idea in 2019, and since then Yia Vang has gone on to notable heights as a chef. He’s competed on “Iron Chef,” launched a podcast about being Hmong and has been nominated for multiple James Beard Awards.
I imagine that Vang wanted to open Vinai sooner, but as a patron, I believe the restaurant has benefited from having a chef who has so much added experience.
